Best Audi Tt Diy Exhaust Modern Amongst Switch Control
Title : Best Audi Tt Diy Exhaust Modern Amongst Switch Control
link : Best Audi Tt Diy Exhaust Modern Amongst Switch Control
Best Audi Tt Diy Exhaust Modern Amongst Switch Control
First of all I would similar to give cheers all the folks over at the VW Vortex R32 forum, since they found, designed too pioneered this method.Background on the exhaust flap: inwards the Golf R32 too TT 3.2, the right tip of the exhaust has a "flap" that opens too closes depending on speed too RPM variation. The intent of the blueprint was to take hold a placidity exhaust when gently driving some town, to abide past times High German dissonance pollution laws, but to also "free it up" too larn inwards loud when driving aggressively.
What is the occupation of this mod: to take hold total command of when the exhaust flap is opened or closed! The ECU has a somewhat wacky way of controlling the flap depending of speed too RPM's:
1. Under vii mph too no affair what RPM, the flap is OPEN
2. Above vii mph, and:
a) higher upward 3100 RPM (after increasing the rev's to higher upward 3100), flap is OPEN
b) below 2700 RPM (assuming the rev's already went higher upward 3100), flap is CLOSED
Which agency that, from idle to 3100 RPM's (assuming the engine hasn't gone higher upward 3100 yet) the flap is closed!
The valve that controls the flap is connected to a solenoid, which gets a signal from the ECU equally to when to opened upward too when to unopen the flap. When the ECU sends a +12V signal, the flap opens up, too when the ECU sends the signal to dry soil (0V), the flap closes.
To accept command of the valve, nosotros tin only re-wire the atomic number 82 that goes to the solenoid past times connecting it to a switch. Unfortunately this cannot live a uncomplicated on/off switch if you lot desire to command the total 3 modes of the flap (always open, ever closed, or stock), too fifty-fifty if you lot exactly desire "always open" too "always closed" you lot take hold to bring out a way to dry soil the solenoid to cash inwards one's chips on the flap closed, too transportation it +12V to cash inwards one's chips on it opened.
In my mod, I chose a slightly dissimilar switch that the R32 guys. It is a DPDT (Dual-Post Dual-Throw) 3-way ON-ON-ON switch, which has 3 dissimilar combinations of connecting six posts.
Beyond the 2 leads that volition come upward from cutting the command wire inwards half, nosotros bespeak a +12V atomic number 82 too a Ground atomic number 82 to brand the valve unopen the flap. The sample diagram volition expect something similar this:
The intent of the resistor connected to the +12V signal is to connect the ECU side of the command wire to some ability source, inwards lodge to "fool" the ECU that it is all the same connected to the solenoid - otherwise it volition throw an mistake code such equally follows:
1 Fault Found:
19475 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321): Open Circuit
P3019 - 004 - No Signal/Communications - Intermittent
Anyway, the switch connections volition live explained farther inwards details later, when it comes to genuinely connecting it.
But for now, the lawsuit of the switch is equally follows:
1) In the tiptop position, it volition alone connect the ECU to the solenoid, thence you lot volition live inwards stock trend (as described above)
2) In the middle position, it volition connect the ECU to the resistor, too the solenoid volition rest disconnected, thence the flap volition ever rest opened too the exhaust volition live LOUD :-)
3) In the bottom position, it volition also connect the ECU to the resistor, but this fourth dimension the solenoid is grounded, thence the flap volition ever rest closed too the exhaust volition live QUIET.
*I highly recommend disconnecting the battery equally you lot volition live touching alive terminals nether the dash, thence delight practise yourself a favor too disconnect the battery to avoid headaches subsequently (and cash inwards one's chips on the torso opened upward since the battery is inwards the back!)*
Step 1: Open upward the dash
a) After opening the driver-side door, take away the panel which covers the fuse panel alongside a apartment screwdriver, or if you lot take hold numbed climber's fingers...
b) Remove these v screws shown below using a torx screwdriver:
c) Remove the remaining 2 screws nether the lower dash panel:
d) Carefully delineate the lower dash panel to take away it acre liberating its left side past times pushing the fuse panel to the left
e) Unplug the 2 headlight housing connectors at the tiptop of the panel, too the VAG connector at the bottom of the panel
Now you lot take hold access to the relay panels shown below, behind which the wire harness you lot bespeak to tap into is located:
Step 2: Find the greyish w/ bluish wire.
Warning: this tin live a major PITA.
You take hold to initiatory off take away the relay panels too thence opened upward up a wire harness (by cutting the record that covers it), which is way the heck upward there, thence live gear upward for some dorsum aches too finger cuts...
a) Remove the relay panels past times unscrewing these 2 hex nuts:
b) I highly propose removing the tiptop panel's relays too connectors to completely gratis upward the infinite required to practise the dingy work. Remember which connector & relay goes where! Here are a yoke of pics to aid you lot a bit:
Note that the broad top-left relay uses 2 connectors that are genuinely i slice behind the panel (if that makes sense...)
c) Now you lot tin meet the wire harness, higher upward too to the left of the aluminum dead pedal. You'll bespeak to start cutting the record right some the betoken where the 2 ruby-red wire bundles bring together the harness:
d) Here's some progress after a few minutes of cutting the tape, but all the same non enough:
e) Finally after most 4 inches of record removal, which seemed to live enough, this is what your harness forthwith looks like:
f) Now the major PITA is to bring out the CORRECT wire, which is a 0.5 mm foursquare ( xx gauge) greyish alongside bluish stripe wire. The job is that in that location were TWO such wires inwards my bundle, too I initiatory off cutting the incorrect one... hither are the 2 wires I found:
The #1 wire is a piffling thicker too genuinely loops dorsum upward the harness. This is the i you lot desire to cut.
The #2 wire is a piffling thinner, but comes from the bottom of the harness to the tiptop thence beware non to cutting this one.
Step 3: Connect the command wire to your ain wire harness
In this measure you lot volition take hold to connect each terminate of the valve command wire to your ain wire harness, which volition live run to the console too eventually connect to the switch for maximum flap command =)
a) Cut the wire some the bottom of the loop to take hold equal lengths to operate with, too strip the ends thence that you lot tin connect them to wires of your choosing:
b) Pick or create a 4-wire parcel long plenty to run from the left side of the dash to the midpoint console. I already had this 4-wire harness alongside 3 in-line fuses, which is perfect for our application (always desire to cash inwards one's chips on a alive wire fused!)
Connect 2 of the fuse lines to a criterion 2-way crimp connector or other connector of your choosing, too the 2 other wires (ground too +12V) to band or U-terminals. In my illustration I chose the dark wire equally ground, ruby-red wire equally +12V, too dark-brown & orangish wires to either ends of the command wire (we'll take hold to determine which i is which later). Make certain to write your colors down!
c) Connect the 2 (brown & orange) wires to the cutting command wire too crimp them downward together:
d) Connect the (red) +12V wire to the right-most terminal of the relay panel, which reads "87 F Diesel":
e) Connect the (black) dry soil wire to the existing star-looking parcel of dry soil wires:
f) Re-tape the wire harness a chip too force it dorsum where you lot pulled it out from to operate on the wires:
g) Run your novel wire parcel behind all the relay panels, the other harnesses, higher upward the pedals too into the raise business office of the console shown here:
See the 3 RCA plugs on the right? That's where I eventually placed the switch, but of degree you lot could mountain it anywhere you lot similar equally long equally the wire parcel you lot run makes it there.
Step 4: Testing the leads for right voltage
This measure serves a dual-purpose: to brand certain every wire is connected properly, too to determine which side of the command wire goes to which wire that volition live run through to the switch.
a) Verify that you lot take hold 0 resistance betwixt the dry soil (black) wire too the star-shaped "hub"
b) Verify that you lot take hold 0 resistance betwixt the +12V (red) wire too the "87 F Diesel" terminal
c) Verify that you lot take hold 12 Volts when mensuration betwixt the +12V (red) too dry soil (black) wires - banknote that the ignition must live turned to ON (engine non necessarily running) to take hold 12V across these leads
d) Now connect your voltmeter betwixt the ECU or Solenoid (brown or orange) too dry soil (black), strap it to a visible house on your dashboard too become for a ride! But first...
e) Replace the relays too their connectors inwards the relay panel (run Step 2-b backwards)
f) Screw the relay panels dorsum where they belong (run Step 2-a backwards)
g) Reinstall the lower dash panel too fuse panel & its comprehend (run Steps 1-e/d/c/b/a backwards)
h) Reconnect the battery!
i) Ok, forthwith you're on the road, too i of your ECU or Solenoid leads displayed on your voltmeter. If the voltmeter reads 12 Volts or to a greater extent than *constantly* this agency you lot take hold the Solenoid lead. Otherwise, it volition either read some 3.6 Volts (that agency the flap should live opened) or unopen to 0 Volts (flap closed). Note that during your examination drive, it volition cash inwards one's chips on the flap ever opened since the ECU is non grounding the Solenoid. You volition definitely listen the deviation when the RPM's are betwixt idle too 3100!! =) Now connect the other ECU or solenoid wire, too confirm that the other voltage behaviour is observed. Also banknote that, since the ECU is no longer connected to the Solenoid, an mistake code volition live thrown past times the ECU too the Check Engine low-cal volition become on. Not to worry though, it volition before long disappear after you lot connect the switch.
Step 5: Onto the switch setup!
As I mentioned inwards the outset (i.e. a acre ago...) the switch must live a 3-way DPDT ON-ON-ON toggle switch inwards lodge to "safely" take hold all 3 modes.
Here are 4 switches I purchased online, equally I couldn't bring out i alongside the right specs locally:
From left to right, nosotros take hold the next business office numbers from the manufacturers:
- APEM 644H/2
- ITT/C&K 7211TZQE22
- ITT/C&K 7211SYZQE
- Electroswitch A232S1YZQ
I ended upward picking the dark ITT one, since it looks the to the lowest degree conspicuous inwards the TT's midpoint console. Also its actuator is a fair chip larger than the other 2 small-scale ones acre having the same small-scale connector size.
Here's a sample diagram of the switch I ended upward using:
What's most valuable inwards this diagram is the "connecting terminals" row that shows which of the switch's poles are connected together inwards every seat of the switch's actuator.
Note that it says the P/N for the i nosotros bespeak is "8A210" inwards this chart, but the consummate P/N for the switch is genuinely 7211SYZQE, which has the same electrical properties equally the 7211TZQE22 I ended upward using (just dissimilar mechanical parts).
Now given the wiring diagram I drew inwards the initiatory off post, too the electrical requirements of this mod, let's assume that:
A = resistor w/ +12V lead
B = wire from ECU
C = solenoid end
D = ground
The intent is to take hold 3 possible modes:
A+B = ECU connected to resistor = "loud"
B+C = ECU connected to solenoid = "normal"
C+D / A+B = ECU to resistor, solenoid to dry soil = "quiet"
Now all that's left is to jibe a wire to a postal service (or two), equally follows:
A = 3
B = 2
C = 1 too 5
D = 6
Going past times the switch diagram above, in that location are 3 positions:
Left = 2+3 / 5+6 = B+A / C+D = "quiet mode"
Center = 2+3 / 5+4 = B+A / C+? = "loud mode"
Right = 2+1 / 5+4 = B+C / C+? = "normal mode"
I know this sounds a chip complicated, but matching the switch poles to the right leads is crucial.
Let's wire upward the switch then!
Since the +12V atomic number 82 needs to initiatory off live connected through a resistor earlier hitting the switch, too to brand things cleaner, I decided to occupation a PC board.
a) Create holes large plenty inwards the PCB for the switch to fit:
b) Cut the PCB downward inwards size equally nosotros won't bespeak the entire surface:
c) Make certain the switch fits snug into the holes:
d) The switch leads should stick out the dorsum a chip for soldering purposes:
e) Here's i side of the switch where poles 1, 2, too 3 are connected to C, B too Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 respectively (where Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 is the +12V atomic number 82 initiatory off going through the resistor):
f) Here's the other side of the switch alongside poles v too 6, connected to C i time again (green loop wire) too D respectively:
g) Here is the "behind-the-scenes" soldering job:
h) I connected the terminate of these brusque leads to woman someone connectors, too voil?! the switch is gear upward for action:
Step 6: Finally, the switch goes in!
Remember the "L-shaped" console slice shown inwards Step 3-g? That's where I wanted to house the switch, thence I felt downward to where the switch would live inwards the best seat too marked it, too thence took the console slice out.
a) Drill a hole where the switch is to go:
b) Pass the switch from behind the trim down slice alongside i nut too a washer, too thence tighten downward the forepart side alongside some other washer too some other nut:
c) Here's the raise side of the switch inwards its lastly place:
I practise recommend roofing the dorsum of the PCB alongside some hot gum or electrical record to avoid shorting whatsoever leads.
d) On the wire parcel that came out from behind the dash inwards Step 3-g, connect each atomic number 82 to a manly someone connector which is the counter-part of the woman someone connector setup inwards Step 5-h (make certain to recall your color-coding now!) too thence connect the wires together, keeping inwards heed which i is which (in my illustration it was easy, since I made certain to occupation the same colors on both ends):
e) Reinstall the left L-shaped catch console piece:
f) From the right side, this is how it looks similar "behind-the-scenes" (the right-side L-shaped trim down slice was initiatory off removed):
g) Make certain the wires don't interfere alongside the console comprehend equally it slides into its opened upward position:
h) Replace the right L-shaped trim down piece, too Voil? - you lot are done!!!
i) Here's how the switch looks similar looking at it from the hand-brake flat (now you lot meet me):
j) too from the driver's eye-level (now you lot don't!):
Now I notice a large deviation inwards audio betwixt the depression RPM ranges mentioned above, peculiarly some 2000 RPM.
The best tidings most this essentially "free" modernistic is: you lot gain most vii HP too v ft-lbs of torque!!
Check out this postal service from the R32 forum from a guy who did a yoke of dyno runs to compare the dissimilar switch modes.
Thanks i time again to all the R32 pioneers who made this happen!!!
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