Best Audi A4 B5 Replacing The Clutch Master/Slave Cylinders
Title : Best Audi A4 B5 Replacing The Clutch Master/Slave Cylinders
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Best Audi A4 B5 Replacing The Clutch Master/Slave Cylinders
Replacing a defective Clutch Master too Slave Cylinders inwards a 1998 A4 Quattro (2.8 AHA)
This article volition enjoin you lot how I replaced the clutch master copy too slave cylinders on my car. Neither I nor AudiWorld assume whatever responsibleness for accuracy or applicability to your situation. Read these instructions carefully too take hold a unopen await at an Audi repair manual earlier attempting this task on your ain car. Be certain to larn proper torque figures too usage a torque wrench to tighten nuts too bolts. The parts you lot are most to supersede are plastic too volition deform if non installed amongst simply about care. Follow all appropriate security practices too think that brake fluid is poisonous too should live disposed of appropriately.
With 99,000 miles on my '98 A4, inwards really hot weather condition (>100 degrees F.), occasionally my clutch pedal would non provide later on existence depressed. I was ever able to force the pedal dorsum upwardly amongst the tip of my foot, but this was becoming to a greater extent than frequent too happened at bad times. It was non instantly clear if the effort of the employment was the master copy or the slave, but the cost of the parts suggested that both could live replaced without breaking the bank. Both parts together came to most $160 too were delivered to my door without fuss from i of the many parts houses you lot tin can at nowadays abide by on-line. (I used bestforeignparts.com, non the cheapest, but they include gratis shipping.)
This task volition require:
- Metric socket laid
- 6mm ball caput Allen wrench (important!)
- Small long apartment blade screwdriver
- Medium apartment blade screwdriver
- Torque wrench
- New DOT 4 brake fluid inwards sealed container (1 modest tin can volition do)
The task is pretty straightforward amongst no surprises. If you've ever replaced a brake or clutch master copy or slave on an older auto you'll live pleasantly surprised. If you've never worked on a auto before, larn somebody to await over your shoulder too learn you lot how. This is likewise overnice a auto to screw up!
Preparation for Master Cylinder Removal
Remove the articulatio genus bolster / encompass nether the steering wheel. You'll abide by that in that location are 4 screws total belongings it up. One is nether the fuse encompass (between the driver's side door too the dash) at the bottom every bit you lot human face upwardly the fuse panel. Just pry off the fuse panel encompass gently amongst your fingers; no tools required. The 4 screws that concur upwardly the bolster take hold 8mm heads.
Next carefully pry out the 2 plastic covers that conceal i screw each. Remove them too locomote your means to the bottom correct where you'll abide by i to a greater extent than screw. The articulatio genus bolster volition at nowadays come upwardly clear except for 2 sets of connectors. One is the nether dash footlight too the other is the socket for the diagnostic connector. Carefully pry the 2 clips from the low-cal too unplug it. The diagnostic connector has a piddling prong which you lot gently depress to force the connector out. Remove the articulatio genus bolster too laid is aside inwards a build clean safe place.
The Audi manufacturing flora service manual says to take the engine ECU to gain access to the hydraulic lines which I did, but I don't believe it's actually required. I'd live interested to know if the mechanics at the dealerships actually create this. If you lot select to take the ECU, disconnect the negative battery connection, but live certain you lot take hold the radio code first.
Remove the ECU
Removing the ECU is non all that complicated but it does entail the greatest gamble of the whole task too is non for the timid. To take the ECU you lot must abide by the dark box on the driver's side nether the hood close the firewall. You may demand to take the wiper arms too the dark plastic trim back nether the wiper arms at the bottom of the windshield to access i of the screws. If so, carefully pry off the dark plastic covers on the wiper arms to disclose the nuts underneath (12mm I think). Mark the windshield amongst simply about masking record to dot where the blades prevarication too so you lot tin can employment upwardly the wiper arms in i lawsuit again when you lot set this all dorsum together. Once you lot take hold access, take the (5) 8mm screws too carefully, amongst your hands, pry off the cover. Under the encompass is a silvery box amongst 2 connectors too a strap across the module. The strap comes off amongst a gentle pushing too prying amongst a screwdriver. You'll demand this too so seek non to distend it likewise much when you lot take hold it out. You'll abide by 2 connectors on the module. Slide the T-handle levers out all the means too the connector volition force itself out. Set the module aside inwards a safe place, preferably out of the Sun too dust too static. So far, too so good. Now for the purpose I wasn't too so hot to do. There are v connectors that demand to live removed to live able to force out the bottom of the dark box that contained the module. Take your apartment blade screw driver too really carefully pry the locks from each of the connectors gently pulling the connector out of its mate. Rock the connector a piddling front end to dorsum too it volition come. Don't apply a lot of forcefulness too seek non to bugger anything or this could transcend away a bigger projection that you lot anticipated.
Now that all the connectors are free, you lot tin can take the (2) 10mm nuts that concur the box downward too take it from the knob at the front end every bit well. Slide the prophylactic kicking that surrounds the cable out of the U shaped notch inwards the box too the box volition come upwardly free. All of this simply gets you lot a piddling to a greater extent than clearance to locomote on the 2 tubes that larn into the firewall here. One is from the bottom of the brake reservoir; the other is the hydraulic employment that runs from the master copy to the slave.
Master Cylinder Removal
Whether you lot take hold removed the ECU or not, you lot volition demand to disconnect the 2 lines. The hose from the reservoir is a barbed plumbing equipment that won't come upwardly off easily. Be certain to clamp off this prophylactic hose to forbid brake fluid from pouring out all over. Behind the firewall too purpose of the replacement master copy is a plastic L shaped fitting. Mine broke every bit I was trying to take the hose from the barbed fitting. You should non fret if it breaks but live prepared to transcend away on the dribbling brake fluid from hitting paint. In retrospect, it would live easier to gild simply about extra hose too simply cutting it amongst a knife rather that playing amongst the thing.
The hydraulic connectedness is simplicity itself. No to a greater extent than screw fittings. These piddling buggers usage a wire clamp arrangement. Carefully slide the wire to driver's left too the metallic employment volition come upwardly out of the master. Again live certain to take hold a rag to protect pigment from brake fluid drips.
DO NOT DEPRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL FROM NOW ON OR YOU'LL HAVE BRAKE FLUID ALL OVER!
Now transcend away nether the dash. Remove the clevis pivot that holds the master copy push-rod to the clutch pedal. Pivot it upwardly too slide it out. Then take the (2) 6mm Allen caput socket screws that concur the master copy to the car. The i on the correct volition live easy. The i on the left volition require the ball caput Allen. There is a catch provide throttle for the clutch pedal that was inwards the means too the ball caput (aka Bondus) Allen was required.
Remove the former master copy too carefully locomote whatever remains of your L plumbing equipment from the slot inwards which it's retained. It's a piddling U shaped cutting inwards simply about canvas metallic that retains it. Push it upwardly too out of this detent to remove.
Installing the New Master Cylinder
Your novel master copy volition come upwardly amongst a novel thick prophylactic washer too a sparse metallic one. My former ones were retained nether canvas metallic when I removed the master. They await similar they were inwards reasonable status too I could come across removing too reinstalling them to live a hurting too so I settled for keeping the former ones. I'm guessing a purist volition tell that this is a seal for water, too so if you lot alive where it rains a lot, await where these items alive too determine if you lot desire to create create it.
Your novel (and old) master copy is plastic. (Go figure.) It has a slice of tubing too an L shaped plastic plumbing equipment at the end.
Snake the L plumbing equipment dorsum to the opening from whence the former i came, employment upwardly the master copy on it's mounting holes too reinstall the 8mm Allen caput bolts. Clean, lubricate (white lithium grease seemed right) too reinstall the clevis pin. Go dorsum to the engine compartment, install the metallic employment into the master copy till it stops too force the wire clip dorsum to it's original position. Replace the employment from the brake reservoir on the barbed fitting. If you lot are exclusively replacing the master, take the clamp, bleed the scheme too clit upwardly the articulatio genus bolster, replacing the 4 screws. Not likewise tightly, they strip really easily.
R&R the Slave Cylinder
If you lot are replacing the slave larn underneath the car. I take hold a 2 postal service lift, but it looks similar it tin can live done on jack stands. On the left side of the transmission bell housing you'll abide by the slave too the metallic hydraulic line. This employment connects to the slave inwards the same means every bit to the master, amongst a wire retainer. Carefully slide the servant aside. Be gentle; mine decided to wing off too it took 10 minutes of frantic looking amongst magnets too mirror to abide by it. If you lot lose it, fearfulness not, a novel i comes amongst the novel slave. Again, live certain to take hold a rag create to grab whatever brake fluid that dribbles out of the line.
Remove the i 6mm Allen caput bolt too take the slave. There is a metallic bracket attached to the slave that retains the metallic line. After the screw is out gently angle both the slave too the bracket to take it from the line.
Installation of the slave was really simple, but in that location is simply about preload, in all probability the clutch fork, too so it requires a piddling sentiment to employment upwardly the 2 mounting holes again. It'll exclusively take hold your hands. Line upwardly the hole, screw dorsum the Allen caput bolt, sideslip the metallic employment onto the metallic servant bracket, insert the hydraulic employment dorsum into the slave too motion the wire servant dorsum into position.
Bleed the scheme
If the clamp on the employment from the reservoir is yet on, brand certain all your hydraulic connections are properly connected too take it. I usage an inexpensive pressure level bleeder. They tin can live had for most $40 on the web. You are going to bleed your brakes someday; this is a proficient tool too a fair price. Only usage DOT 4 brake fluid. I usage Castrol, but live certain to usage novel high character DOT 4 fluid from a sealed can. With the pressure level bleeder inwards house too pumped to 15-20 lbs. larn dorsum nether the auto too opened upwardly the bleeder valve. (Use a hose too a grab bottle. Please come across instructions elsewhere for haemorrhage brakes too clutch's.) Once all the air is out, unopen the bleeder, build clean upwardly too experience that novel pedal feel.
My former pedal experience was horrible too the departure betwixt former too novel quite surprising. It takes much less pedal forcefulness now.
ECU replacement
If you lot removed the ECU, the connectors too the ECU box, at nowadays is the fourth dimension to set that all dorsum together. Put the box dorsum inwards it's original position, supersede the 2 10mm nuts too don't over tighten. Use a torque wrench. Reinstall each of the coloring cloth coded connectors into their proper location. You should take heed a click when the seat, but you lot tin can also come across that they are all the same peak when they are properly seated. Reconnect the ECU itself too restore it to it's proper location existence certain to reinstall the metallic strap over it. Replace the plastic encompass too supersede the screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. These screws are tightened to a really depression torque value. Use a torque wrench or live really gentle. You desire this box to seal properly too you lot create non desire to strip the plastic.
Replace the dark trim back too the windshield wiper arms using the masking record to employment them upwardly inwards the correct place.
Reconnect the negative battery lead. My calculator did non throw whatever DTCs, (diagnostic problem codes, AKA banking enterprise check engine light) but the Audi manual says it could. Be prepared for this. If you lot don't ain or take hold access to i of the many proficient applications for the PC or PDA that connects to your car, you lot may demand to take hold it to the dealer to clear the code or codes.
Enter your radio code. See radio owner's manual for instructions.
Reset your clock.
Please experience gratis to drib me a regime notation to enjoin me if this physical care for was helpful. I'd also specially similar to take heed from anyone who does the task without removing the ECU.
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